Golden Autumn in Italy!?
Italy is always worth a trip, almost like a law of nature. Initially, our plans were set for Tuscany and Umbria. However, the drive there is simply too long for a week. Over 1400 kilometers would have been a bit much. Spontaneously, we decided on Lombardy and South Tyrol. An attractive hotel deal lured us to Varese. We intended to spend the second part of our short break by Lake Garda. Crossing the beautiful “Passo del Lucomagno” (Lukmanier Pass) under radiant sunshine and very pleasant temperatures, although the weather didn’t stay on our side – La bella Italia cannot be beaten!
The Palace Grand Hotel in Varese
We settled at the Palace Grand Hotel Varese, brought to our attention by a travel agency. The lodging is surrounded by a large, beautiful park. Even the approach to the hotel, winding like a serpent, is an experience in itself. The hotel stands on Campigli Hill, built in the first decade of the 20th century. Parts of the hotel were destroyed in the Second World War.
The tourist golden era of the Palace Hotel was in the 1950s and 60s. It hosted a film festival and the awarding of the “Noci d’Oro,” attracting celebrities from the film and show business. The old, somewhat plushy furnishings might not be everyone’s taste, but I like it. The hotel is very clean, and the staff is very friendly. Everything has style. Our room on the fourth floor boasts a fantastic view of Lake Varese and the old town. The sight of the mountains or the morning fog over Lake Varese is simply beautiful.
We particularly liked the bar, just as I would envision a bar: a counter, a cheerful bartender, comfortable chairs, and a relaxed crowd. What I particularly love about Italy is the aperitif time. It’s celebrated here. Small “delicacies” are served with an Aperol Spritz or any other drink. A fantastic tradition – in my opinion.
Sacro Monte di Varese
Before starting our journey, I stocked up on relevant literature, always including a hiking guide. I quickly learned that the Sacro Monte near Varese is not only a landscape gem but also a cultural highlight.
After the splendid weather on our arrival day, Sunday unfortunately greets us with a grey sky and heavy clouds. It starts raining right at the foot of the Sacred Mountain – first gently, then gradually intensifying. Armed with an umbrella, we embark on the processional route lined with 14 chapels and a small church leading to the Sacro Monte. Hoping that the precipitation might stop – it doesn’t. As the temperatures also drop, we become more and more uncomfortable the higher we climb the mountain. Almost at the top, we opt for the elevator for the final stretch to the sanctuary church, Santa Maria del Monte. It feels like a sin. We suspect that from up there, we would have had a fantastic view of the surroundings – in theory.
Upon reaching the church, we warm up a little and let the imposing sacred building impress us. We absorb a piece of the Holy Mass. The rain has slightly subsided upon our return from the church. However, after looking at the sky, we decide to begin the orderly return journey. Yet, in my heart, I know that I want to walk the Sacro Monte again in the sunshine.
In the Roar of Engines
Back at the hotel, we wonder what to do with the rest of the day. The rain doesn’t let up, and just “hanging out” at the hotel doesn’t seem like an alternative. Holger has an idea. He suggests a trip to the Alfa Romeo Museum in Arese. I’m not particularly into cars, but it’s worth a try. We meander via the countryside towards Milan to the Museo Storico Alfa Romeo, as it’s officially called. The former car manufacturer’s factory stands in a nondescript industrial area. However, as soon as you enter the building, the sounds of the engines elicit the first emotions. The museum tour takes us through the varied (car racing) history of Alfa Romeo.
After a while, I too become enamored with the elegant racing cars and their corresponding history. Background music and clever color schemes are arranged to emotionally engage even the most sober visitors. A visit to the exhibition is definitely worth it – especially on a rainy day. As we leave the premises, we’re very surprised to find a huge traffic jam on the opposite lane. The cars are all headed to the “Centro Commerciale,” an oversized shopping center. Evidently, this is the Italians’ Sunday afternoon pleasure when the weather doesn’t comply. Well, to each their own. As we can’t find an inviting cafe on the way back, we return to the Palace and end the day with an aperitif in the hotel bar.
The next day also greets us with rain. Another museum visit is in order, combined with a quick trip to Milan. The wood furniture manufacturer “Riva 1920” has settled near the Lombardian capital. Alongside a showroom, there’s the “Museum of Wood” to explore. Riva 1920’s showcase is genuinely impressive. I’m passionate about Italian design, particularly furnishing ideas. Many German furniture stores can’t hold a candle to this. The walk-in closet will be the highlight for every fashion-conscious woman. A dream in light wood for the ladies and slightly darker shades for the men.
Filled with enthusiasm, we head to Milan’s city center. Parking in Italian city centers is a real challenge. Now, it’s time for some shopping. The guidebook recommends the DMAG Outlet, supposedly one of the best in Milan and in the world. Nearby, we find a parking garage. Here’s how it works: you don’t park your car yourself. An attendant greets you at the entrance and takes care of parking. Later, they retrieve your car. The attendant drives into the lower level, and a lift automatically raises the car from the lower level. Fascinating.
So, full of anticipation, we head to the supposed fashion temple. Having found the unassuming store, I must say: save yourself the trip. The store is an absolute mess. The goods are randomly stuffed on the shelves. Apart from the prices, it all looks shoddy. After just two minutes, I’ve lost any desire to rummage through the heaps of clothes. We move on to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, where luxury stores and unfortunately tourists abound. As the rain persists, we seek shelter in Rinascente Duomo department store. Here, all luxury brands are gathered in one place. It’s literally chaotic. I miss the times during COVID when one could concentrate on things without disturbance.
Now, with budget airlines flying the masses back into cities, the sense of tranquility is gone. It’s all about presenting oneself and the snagged luxury as photogenic as possible on Instagram, TikTok, or wherever. Some might like it, but establishments. I need a hot drink. According to the guidebook, the Trussardi Café by Giancarlo Perbellini serves very good coffee. It does indeed. The Americano coffee is delicious. I indulge in a Baileys on the rocks alongside it, relaxing. In our view, we’ve had enough of the big city atmosphere for the day. We drive back to Varese, to our Palace Hotel, and end the day, as usual, with an aperitif.
The next day dawns with rain once again. This time, a visit to a museum and a brief trip to Milan might be on the cards. The wood furniture manufacturer “Riva 1920” has established itself near the Lombardian capital. Apart from a showroom, there’s the “Museum of Wood” to explore. Riva 1920’s showcase is genuinely impressive. I’m passionate about Italian design, particularly furnishing ideas. Many German furniture stores can’t hold a candle to this. The walk-in closet will be the highlight for every fashion-conscious woman. A dream in light wood for the ladies and slightly darker shades for the men.
So, with that inspirational visit, we head towards Milan’s city center. Parking in Italian city centers is a real challenge. Now, it’s time for some shopping. The guidebook recommends the DMAG Outlet, supposedly one of the best in Milan and the world. Nearby, we find a parking garage. Here’s how it works: you don’t park your car yourself. An attendant greets you at the entrance and takes care of parking. Later, they retrieve your car. The attendant drives into the lower level, and a lift automatically raises the car from the lower level. Fascinating.
So, full of anticipation, we head to the supposed fashion temple. Having found the unassuming store, I must say: save yourself the trip. The store is an absolute mess. The goods are randomly stuffed on the shelves. Apart from the prices, it all looks shoddy. After just two minutes, I’ve lost any desire to rummage through the heaps of clothes. We move on to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, where luxury stores and unfortunately tourists abound. As the rain persists, we seek shelter in Rinascente Duomo department store. Here, all luxury brands are gathered in one place. It’s literally chaotic. I miss the times during COVID when one could concentrate on things without disturbance.
Now, with budget airlines flying the masses back into cities, the sense of tranquility is gone. It’s all about presenting oneself and the snagged luxury as photogenic as possible on Instagram, TikTok, or wherever. Some might like it, but I’m not a fan. The prices are too high for me, the patterns, fabrics, and cuts are too over-the-top, and I’m left wondering where I’d wear these pretentious clothes. So, we leave Rinascente and find ourselves back in the city center. Human lines form in front of interesting and historic establishments. I need a hot drink. According to the guidebook, the Trussardi Café by Giancarlo Perbellini serves very good coffee. It does indeed. The Americano coffee is delicious. I indulge in a Baileys on the rocks alongside it, relaxing. In our view, we’ve had enough of the big city atmosphere for the day. We drive back to Varese, to our Palace Hotel, and end the day, as usual, with an aperitif.
The next day dawns with rain once again. This time, a visit to a museum and a brief trip to Milan might be on the cards. The wood furniture manufacturer “Riva 1920” has established itself near the Lombardian capital. Apart from a showroom, there’s the “Museum of Wood” to explore. Riva 1920’s showcase is genuinely impressive. I’m passionate about Italian design, particularly furnishing ideas. Many German furniture stores can’t hold a candle to this. The walk-in closet will be the highlight for every fashion-conscious woman. A dream in light wood for the ladies and slightly darker shades for the men.
So, with that inspirational visit, we head towards Milan’s city center. Parking in Italian city centers is a real challenge. Now, it’s time for some shopping. The guidebook recommends the DMAG Outlet, supposedly one of the best in Milan and the world. Nearby, we find a parking garage. Here’s how it works: you don’t park your car yourself. An attendant greets you at the entrance and takes care of parking. Later, they retrieve your car. The attendant drives into the lower level, and a lift automatically raises the car from the lower level. Fascinating.
So, full of anticipation, we head to the supposed fashion temple. Having found the unassuming store, I must say: save yourself the trip. The store is an absolute mess. The goods are randomly stuffed on the shelves. Apart from the prices, it all looks shoddy. After just two minutes, I’ve lost any desire to rummage through the heaps of clothes. We move on to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, where luxury stores and unfortunately tourists abound. As the rain persists, we seek shelter in Rinascente Duomo department store. Here, all luxury brands are gathered in one place. It’s literally chaotic. I miss the times during COVID when one could concentrate on things without disturbance.
Now, with budget airlines flying the masses back into cities, the sense of tranquility is gone. It’s all about presenting oneself and the snagged luxury as photogenic as possible on Instagram, TikTok, or wherever. Some might like it, but I’m not a fan. The prices are too high for me, the patterns, fabrics, and cuts are too over-the-top, and I’m left wondering where I’d wear these pretentious clothes. So, we leave Rinascente and find ourselves back in the city center. Human lines form in front of interesting and historic establishments. I need a hot drink. According to the guidebook, the Trussardi Café by Giancarlo Perbellini serves very good coffee. It does indeed. The Americano coffee is delicious. I indulge in a Baileys on the rocks alongside it, relaxing. In our view, we’ve had enough of the big city atmosphere for the day. We drive back to Varese, to our Palace Hotel, and end the day, as usual, with an aperitif.
Hiking by the Lake
The world looks entirely different the next day. It seems the day will be sunny. Time for an outing—specifically, to the water. More precisely, one of the surrounding lakes. We opt for Lago Varese and Lago di Comabbio, both west of Varese. The circular route, mostly following a bike path, leads us through a wooded area to Parco di Corgeno. We bask in the sun on a bench. The flight path from Milan’s Malpensa Airport seems close; Ryanair and EasyJet planes fly over our heads, seemingly every two minutes.
Back at the starting point, it’s my moment. We must make use of this glorious day for a second attempt at Sacro Monte. The ascent is absolutely overwhelming. The chapel colors glow in the warm light of the afternoon sun. The views of Varese, all the way to Milan and the Dolomites, are breathtaking. I can hardly tear my eyes away. My heart opens, and I’m simply grateful to be here. This time at Sacro Monte is balm for my soul. Up higher on the hill, we watch the sunset. What a wonderful, peaceful, and absolutely tranquil moment. A gift in my eyes. It’s hard for me to leave this wonderful place.
The following day, we leave Lombardy and head further to Lake Garda. Riva del Garda is our destination. By noon, we reach our destination. Unfortunately, the sky is overcast that day, and the color of Lake Garda is more gray than blue. Since our hotel room isn’t available yet, we initially stretch our legs. Even at this time of year, this corner of Northern Italy is still very popular and lively. In the early afternoon, we hop on our bikes and cycle towards Arco. The cycle path runs along the Sarca River, which is well filled from the recent weeks’ heavy rains. We have fond memories of this charming spa town from our last visit in 2006 (!).
Even though November 1st is a holiday in Italy, many shops in Arco are open. The town is dominated by outdoor stores. It’s clear to the visitor that the region is very sport-oriented: cycling, hiking, water sports, and climbing—everything an athlete’s heart desires is represented. Unfortunately, it starts raining during our stroll, and we begin our return to Riva del Garda.
A Visit to Trento
The next day, a heavy rainstorm covers Northern Italy. Engaging in outdoor activities is unfortunately out of the question. What now? A look on the internet draws my attention to the city of Trento. On the one hand, the city center is said to be very beautiful, and on the other, there’s a very interesting technical museum and a castle to visit. So, off to Trento. On-site, we encounter two problems: heavy rain and an almost impossible task of finding a parking spot. It seems we’re far from the only ones wanting to spend this rainy day in the Northern Italian city. Due to the persistent rain, it doesn’t make sense to linger in the city center, so we try our luck at MUSE. However, after half an hour of searching for parking, we give up. Both parking lots belonging to the museum are full. Outside spots nearby make no sense; either parking is only allowed for 15 minutes or there’s simply no space available.
We give Trento one last chance and try our luck at the Castello del Buonconsiglio. Here, too, it takes us a while to park our car lawfully. But eventually, we get the chance to visit the fortress, and it’s really worth it. Any fan of castles—like me—will be delighted here. I highly recommend visiting the Eagle Tower (Torre dell’Aquila). It costs an additional two euros, but it’s a well-invested amount. The walls of the tower are painted with a calendar cycle (“Ciclo die Mesi”). A truly impressive work of Gothic art. With the help of an audio guide, you are well introduced to that time.
On our way back, we stop at one of the numerous “bacon shops” by the wayside. Here you find everything: from sausage and cheese to olive oil and wine. However, we resist the temptation to buy something and settle for an Americano coffee at the counter. So, we’ve managed to make the best of this rainy day.
When the Sun Shines at Lake Garda
The weather forecast for our penultimate day promises an improvement in the afternoon. Boldly, we drive along Gardesana Orientale to Bardolino, assuming the weather might be better in the southern part of the lake. Unfortunately, the weather doesn’t cooperate. What to do then? A look in the travel guide informs us that nearby is the largest shopping center on the lake: the Grand’Affi. Okay, we think, at least it’s dry there. Indeed, the parking lot is quite full. However, it takes only five minutes to realize that the shopping center is still not an alternative even in the rain. So, we don’t give up hope for the weather improving and head back to Bardolino. During a walk along the lakeshore, we’re surprised to see how high the water is. The lake is buffeted by the wind, often spilling over the edges. You could almost describe it as a raging sea. However, we notice from the opposite side that it’s slowly clearing, and the blue sky is moving towards us.
Then, the sunrays struggle through the gray sky, initially timidly and then increasingly stronger. Finally, the Garda Lake gets the beautiful blue color I associate with it. It’s unbelievable how the entire landscape changes within minutes. The lake sparkles, the sky sheds its gray cloak, and the innkeepers set up their tables outdoors. We drive a bit further to Lazise. Here, a completely different scene unfolds. While it was still easy to find parking in the rain in Bardolino, just a few kilometers away, the search begins again. But we find a spot, even close to the promenade. And here, our hearts open wide. Lazise’s harbor is the “place to be,” that’s quickly clear. The town with its well-preserved city wall and three gates is indeed beautiful. The lakeside town immediately reminded me of Venice.
Quickly, we forget the rain and gray of the past days in the face of the splendid views. Now, only one thing is missing for our happiness: a proper sundowner. Our choice falls on Garda. And solely the travel guide is to blame for this: “Garda is famous for its sunset, turning the lake into a sparkling sea of gold.” Yes, that’s true. We find a lovely spot right by the lake at the right time. With an Aperol Spritz, we watch the sun set, not in Capri, but in Garda, transforming the lake into a sparkling sea of gold. It’s indescribable—the magnificent light the sun casts on the houses and the promenade. You have to see it for yourself.
However, after the sun sets, it quickly gets chilly, and we head back swiftly.
The Thrill Terrace of Pieve
On our last day at Lake Garda, incidentally, also my birthday, we wake up to glorious sunshine. Today is the day when I want to go on my hike through the plateau of Tremosine. On my special day, I really want to have a Prosecco on the famous Thrill Terrace (terrazza del brivido) of the Hotel Paradiso.
So, we ascend from the lake to Pieve, our starting point for the day. My enthusiasm grows with every meter we climb. The views over the lake and the hilly landscape are breathtaking. This tranquility, the lake at our feet, and the majestic mountains opposite are awe-inspiring. I would love to capture this (eye) moment. I wish I were an eagle or a hawk right now, flying over the lake to Monte Baldo. Once again, I experience a moment of exhilaration and inner peace in my beloved mountains. The hiking trail leads through idyllic farms, cow pastures, olive groves, and through the forest. We can barely contain our wonder.
However, on our way back to Pieve, we have a rather peculiar experience. When we re-enter the forest near Sompriezzo, I get a shock after turning a curve. Unintentionally, my gaze falls directly on the bony, bare bottom of a man who is bending his thin stilts to, well, do his business. He stands there unsteadily and somewhat bedraggled, and I’m not sure whether this person is a bum or drunk, or possibly both. I also find it strange that he chose a part of the path that’s very visible and hides nothing. We wait a few minutes, hoping he’ll finish. Eventually, we continue, and the man is still there, half-naked and completely unembarrassed. I find the scene quite surreal and am relieved when we leave the incident behind us.
Unfortunately, a great disappointment awaits me in Pieve. The Hotel Paradiso and therefore the Thrill Terrace are closed until the end of March. Oh dear. I have to accept this setback. So, we opt for a drink at the Sailing Bar in Riva del Garda. The beautiful location at the Porto San Nicolò marina compensates somewhat for the missed thrill. However, the culinary highlight of the day is undoubtedly our dinner at the “Al Volt” restaurant. Both the decor, the service, and, of course, the food are sensational. I choose the tasting menu with lake fish, while Holger goes for the meat option. It’s a delight. The fruit sorbet at the end knocks our socks off. Each sorbet is placed in a fruit (mandarin, banana, plum, etc.) and flavorfully reflects the fruit it’s served in. I’ve never had such a good sorbet in my life. To conclude, I order an espresso. Alongside it, a self-made chocolate cake is served again. Although we’re already full, we can’t resist. However, we graciously decline a second serving.
Unfortunately, Sunday means saying goodbye to Lake Garda. We are bid farewell by a sky-blue and clear view of the mountains. We want to leave Italy via the Brenner Pass towards Tyrol—or rather, have to. Briefly, our breath catches at Brenzano as the radio announces that it snowed last night. And indeed, the landscape around us is slowly turning whiter. On the Brenner Pass itself, the visibility is very poor. But all ends well. And after a 12-hour drive—luckily without traffic-jams—we safely arrive back in our hometown. Once again, we are enchanted by Bella Italia.
