Salzgitter-Bad: Tracing the salt history
This sunday my wanderlust gets a rest. My plans for today require my mountainbike because I am about to discover Salzgitter-Bad. The old part of the town is supposed to have some nice frame houses, that’s what I learned from the internet. Finally I end up strolling in the footsteps of the salt history. On the way I discover interesting things because I reach the point where an ice cellar and a municipal cemetery form a symbioses. I wonder if the result of this connection is the bonmot to link the useful with the convenient.
The horrible Oderwald
My route leads from Braunschweig via the Südsee to Wolfenbüttel. Shortly behind the train station I go uphill to the Oderwald. I cannot help myself but I cannot become friendly with this undeveloped forest. It is hard to cycle on the gravel roads and somehow I have the feeling that I have to go uphill all the time. The strong contrary winds ruins the rest of the path down to Wolfenbüttel-Linden. I am glad to leave this stressful part of the route behind me.
From Linden I follow the signposted cycle path to Cramme. The family “derer von Cramme” is supposed to come from this place. I continue to Lobmachtersen and Salzgitter-Flachstöckheim. I discover the namesake estate and a magnificent linden tree within the corresponding park.
Seppchen Muthig
Salzgitter-Bad is only a stone’s throw away from here. In the historic town I come across the signpost “On the traces of salt”. That sounds good to me. Taking the Vorsaler Straße I reach the Klesmerplatz. From there I get to the Kuhstraße and encounter the bronze of Seppchen Muthig. I have not heard of Mr. Muthig so far. Now I learn that he was the last well-known busker of Salzgitter who was honored with a memorial at the crossing of Kuh- and Warnestreet.
On Kirchplatz no. 3 I discover a baroque stone house. The house is something special and has a mediterranean touch to it. The house was built by Friedrich Julius von Kniestedt. He belonged to a well-off family of Kniestedt.
Tracing the salt history
On the market place I come across the rose garden of the city. This is the place where the salt history really starts. My route leads me through the site, the centre of it is a salina pavilion and the remains of a salt well. In 1825 already the extracted sole was used for cures. At the beginning of the 20th century a big bathhouse used to stand here. Above the garden I meet the two salters, two life-size bronzes. A salter used to be the job title for somebody who extracts salt from the ground.
On the site of the rose garden more historic buildings are located such as the Garßenhof. The building belongs to the former manor of the Gitter family. Today’s toponym was formed from the two words “Salz” and “Gitter”. Right next to the place on Marienplatz 12 there is the Tillyhouse which counts for one of the oldest building of Salzgitter. According to historical sources domicile is said to have served as accommodation for the commander Tilly during the Thirty Years’ War.
The art gallery at the Kniestedter Kirche
Finally I take a look at the former working-class quarter Vorsalz. The housing estate was built in 1500 in order to provide salt pan workers with homes. On my way back I stop at the Klesmerplatz. Klesmer is the denomination for musicians from Salzgitter who travelled the world due to shortage of money and became famous by that.
Klezmer-music is or was on the schedule at the art gallery of the Kniestedter Kirche. At the city limits I make another stop here and take a look at the picture gallery showing the artists who performed here. I am amazed to learn who has been here: Walter Giller, Hardy Krüger, Emil Steinberger, Joachim Fuchsberger or Gerd Fröbe.
With the view onto the Kniestedter manor I am leaving Salzgitter-Bad. I must admit that I did not expect so many historical sites and events right here.
